5.19.2011

Some Work Before the Rain

It was sunny this morning! It is supposed to start raining around 1, and I just had to take advantage of the dry morning. I got the composters built, but for some reason, don't have a picture of them on this round of pics. I promise I will post one later today. I got the side garden all weeded out and ready for raspberries from Momma Gardener, and weeded the front yard as well. Not too many weeds there since we just "landscaped" it about 2 weeks ago. I say "landscaped" even though it's only about 6*9 ft... The date has been pretty much set for Bill the Wonderman to come and finish our wall... Hubby is about 1/3 of the way through with taking the wall out so that Bill can finish the hole and make it a dining room. We even bought a chandelier!

OH! Do any of you know what I am supposed to do with tulips after they are done blooming? Should I cute them down? Just let them die? I know I want to move them in the fall to around my cherry tree, but I am just not sure of what to do with them right now... 
My "Side Garden"

Spent Tulips

Iris! I LOVE these!


The Dust Barrier

Inside the PLastic

The Wall Before

4 comments:

  1. Had to laugh at the dust barrier! Is there really such a thing? Don't you find it everywhere any way? Everytime we do a project it just keeps seeping for years!

    I am not a flower person however, if you are going to move them in the fall, I would be inclined to leave them so you can find them. But that's just my crazy head talkin'. Generally if I can't eat it, I don't grow it. Get into my belly! :o)

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  2. APG, You crack me up!!! I am not a flower person either, hence why I really have no clue what to do! Yeah, the dust sucks, and it will go everywhere anyways, but hopefully not as much... I am sure I will be posting dust pictures any day now...

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  3. It's my first time growing tulips too. I read this on a growers site. Also, you can move them after the green leaves turn brown.

    After tulip flowers have faded, "dead-head" them by clipping off the faded blooms so that they won't go to seed. Narcissi (daffodils) do not require dead-heading,just leave as is. The main requirement for bulb flowers in the post-bloom period is to leave the leaves alone so the plant can put its energy into "recharging" its bulb for next spring's performance. This "energy charge" is gained through photosynthesis as the plant uses the sun's energy to turn basic elements such as oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium into food. This food is stored in the bulb's "scales," the white fleshy part of the bulb, for use next spring.

    It is necessary to leave the green foliage exposed to the sun until it turns brown or six weeks have elapsed since blooming. Fight the urge to trim back or constrain the leaves during their die-back phase after blooming. Don't bunch, tie, braid or cut bulb plant leaves during this period. Dealing with the fading foliage is basically one of those things that lovers of spring bulbs must deal with. The only management tip is camouflage.

    Try interplanting bulbs with annuals or perennials, or planting them strategically nearby so that the latter mask the declining bulb foliage as best as possible. As a planting strategy, plant clumps of bulbs instead of full beds. This way you will have a lovely spring show, and plenty of room to plant camouflaging companions.

    Avoid fertilizing the annuals planted in the same bed until the bulbs have died back. Bulbs in spring, if they're fertilized at all, should only get a dose of fast-release nitrogen about six weeks before flowering (normally bulbs want a low nitrogen mix, but in spring it is the green-encouraging nitrogen that is called for). Fertilizing bulbs too close to flowering time, when the bulbs can't metabolize the food, only encourages fusarium disease and other nasty things.

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